Husbandry and Nutrition
Husbandry is essentially the ‘care’ that you provide for your pet and includes housing, bedding (substrate), hides (caves, plants etc.), humidity, heating and lighting.
Each species of lizard (and there are approximately 5,600 recorded) has very specific husbandry needs and it is essential that you know these requirements.
We see vegetarian iguanas, insect eating chameleons, sun loving bearded dragons and nocturnal geckoes. All need totally different environments and diets.
Don’t worry, we can help!
If you don’t know the species the vet can help you identify in the consultation. If it is an unusual species we may have to take some photos and do some research after the consultation.
The vast majority of problems we see are related to problems with husbandry.
Areas you need to consider, and which can be discussed further with your vet are:
Housing – Is he/she tree dwelling, a desert species, ground dwelling, a burrowing lizard?
Substrate – this is the ‘bedding’ used. Some types can look nice but actually be quite irritating or even poisonous to your lizard. Your pet may eat bedding material which can cause internal blockages. This is something we see quite often.
Hides – most lizards do not like being out in the open or exposed. They need to be able to choose from a selection of hides or resting places on branches in areas of appropriate temperature and humidity. If they cannot hide/rest then this can lead to stress associated and reproductive diseases.
Heating –Lizards are ectothermic; they are almost completely incapable of generating body heat and require appropriate environmental temperatures to achieve body temperatures necessary for metabolism (movement, digestion). A range of temperatures (the preferred optimum temperature zone or POTZ) is desirable so that your pet can chose a comfortable area. Again, it is important to know the species you have in order to determine what temperature range to provide.
Lighting – Diurnal lizards (those active during daylight) need exposure to full spectrum UV lighting (UVA = 400-315nm, UVB= 315-280nm) to support vision and crucial physiological processes such as calcium absorption. Not all UV bulbs are created equally – recent studies have shown that many bulbs on the market do not meet minimum requirements for UV emission. We recommend regular replacement of UV bulbs, every 6 months, as well as monitoring of UV output with a UV meter if possible (we have one, your bulb can be checked during the consult).
Humidity – Is your lizard from a desert or rainforest environment? Humidity requirements will vary drastically. Inappropriate levels can effect hydration, skin health and shedding.
Lizard Nutrition
Each species of lizard has very specific diet needs and it is essential that you know these requirements.
We work with insect eating geckos, omnivorous bearded dragons, and leaf eating iguana. There are even lizards that eat other lizards and Komodo dragons will even eat people!
Obviously this subject is very species dependent; you must know and research your species. Do not trust what the pet shop owner told you, or what the one forum you read claimed. Extensive research is important.
It is important not to take the easy route and just feed one or two items that you know are acceptable and your pet likes. In the wild they would have to take many types of insect, or plant, and this makes for a balanced diet.
We often see owners who explain that their iguana only likes romaine lettuce, or their gecko only likes crickets. It the wild the animal would not have this luxury, and this form of ‘spoiling’ is not good for their health.
Captive diets often need supplementation to provide balanced nutrition (for example, calcium and vitamin D3). This can be discussed in detail during your consultation – it is important to understand that, whilst supplementation is often necessary, it needs to be done under veterinary guidance as overdoses are possible and potentially very serious.
Food items used depend on what size and species of lizard you have. They need to be of good quality and free from disease and fed on healthy food (or ‘gut loaded’)
We usually do not recommend feeding of live prey for many reasons, one of which being the potential for injuries to your lizard, which could caused by live prey items such as mice. There are also welfare considerations for the poor prey!